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Camping with a Dog Packing List

From the pet passport to the cooling mat: this packing list for camping with a dog covers the compulsory paperwork, feeding, safety on the pitch and the canine first-aid kit — so the dog arrives as relaxed as you do.

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Paperwork and preparation

The dog travels on paperwork of its own. Anything missing here shows up at the border, not at the campsite.

  • EU pet passport, or an animal health certificate for UK ownersCompulsory for any trip abroad, and worthless without a valid rabies vaccination.
  • Rabies vaccination valid and recordedA first vaccination has to be at least 21 days before you enter the country. Later is too late.
  • Microchip number written downWithout a readable chip the best paperwork is useless, and the number is what a vet abroad will ask for.
  • Entry rules for the destination checkedSome countries also require a tapeworm treatment, and some ban certain breeds outright.
  • A muzzle the dog is used toRequired on buses, trains and ferries in many countries. Getting the dog used to it belongs before the trip, not at the port.
  • Campsite booked that accepts dogsNot every site takes dogs, and some charge a separate fee per night.
  • Address of a vet at the destination notedLooking for a practice abroad in the evening costs time you will not have.
  • Third-party liability insurance for the dogCompulsory in several countries, and the single most important line the day something happens.
  • ID tag with a mobile numberThe number that is genuinely reachable on holiday, not the landline at home.

On the road

The drive is the hardest part of the trip for a dog. Preparation does more here than any amount of reassurance.

  • Travel crate or harness restraintAn unrestrained dog becomes a projectile under emergency braking, and a fine on top of that.
  • A familiar blanket in the crateThe familiar smell noticeably lowers stress on a long stage.
  • Sunshades for the car windowsBehind glass in the back it gets hot faster than the driver notices in front.
  • Water and a bowl within reachNot in the boot under the luggage, but where you can reach it from the driver’s seat.
  • A break planned every two hoursMovement and water work better against travel sickness than any remedy.
  • Poo bags in the carThe first stop comes sooner than the first bin.
  • Towel for wet or muddy breaksService areas in the rain are the normal case on a long drive.
  • Travel sickness discussed with the vetSort it out before you leave rather than improvising on the way.
  • Lead on before the door opensAt motorway services the first jump out is the most dangerous moment of the trip.

Food and water

Changing a dog’s food on holiday is the most common cause of stomach trouble. That is why everything here stays as it is.

  • The usual food for the whole tripThe brand is often not sold abroad, and switching on the road upsets the stomach.
  • A little extra food beyond the trip lengthFor the day of delay that is possible on any journey home.
  • Food and water bowls with a non-slip baseOn uneven ground a light bowl travels halfway across the awning.
  • Folding bowl for days outWeighs nothing and turns every stop on a walk into a drink stop.
  • A water bottle for the dog aloneWater quality at the destination is an unknown, and dogs react to it more readily.
  • Food container with a tight lidOpen food attracts ants and pine martens, and both are a problem on site.
  • Treats for trainingOn unfamiliar ground, recall needs more reward than it does at home.
  • A chew for the quiet hoursIt occupies the dog while the family eats, and that is the most critical moment of the day.
  • Feeding times kept as they are at homeThe familiar rhythm is the strongest point of reference in strange surroundings.
  • Somewhere cool for wet foodAn opened tin goes off within a day in summer heat.
  • Spoon and a tin lidTwo small things you forget exactly once.

Sleeping and rest

A dog with no place of its own never settles — and then nobody else settles either.

  • Dog bed or travel matA clearly defined place of its own matters more than how comfortable it is.
  • A familiar blanket from homeThe familiar smell turns a strange tent into somewhere of its own.
  • Insulating mat underneathEven in summer the ground draws warmth at night, especially in a tent.
  • A second blanket to cover the dogShort-haired dogs get cold at night earlier than they look as though they will.
  • Favourite toyA familiar object helps a dog settle in more than any amount of fussing.
  • A shaded spot plannedThe sleeping place from the morning is in full sun by midday.
  • Towel for drying off outside the tentA wet dog in the sleeping bag is a mistake you make once.
  • Site quiet hours notedBarking during the afternoon quiet period is the most common reason for trouble with neighbours.
  • Crate or a barrier for the awningIt keeps the dog on the pitch even when the tent door is open.

On the pitch

A site has rules you do not have at home. Most of them are about the lead.

  • Lead and a spare leadLeads break and get lost, and a dog off the lead is not allowed on a site.
  • Long line for controlled exerciseIt allows movement even where running free is banned.
  • Ground anchor or tie-out stakeThe only way to secure a dog on the pitch without tying it to the table.
  • Harness as well as a collarOn a tie-out and on walks, a harness pulls on the chest rather than the neck.
  • Poo bags in quantityCampsites take this seriously, and you can rarely restock on site.
  • Reflective or light-up collarIn the evening cars and bikes move around the site, and a dark dog is invisible.
  • Water bowl set up in the shadeIn the sun, water becomes undrinkably warm within an hour.
  • Sun sail or a shaded spotA dog cannot retreat into the vehicle the way a person can.
  • Doormat or towel at the entranceIt keeps most of the sand and grass out of the interior.
  • A quiet pitch chosenNext to the playground or the shower block, no dog settles.
  • Site rules on running free readThey are posted at reception and differ considerably from site to site.

Walks and hiking

The real reason camping with a dog works at all. Preparation decides how far you get.

  • Walking map showing permitted pathsIn nature reserves and national parks dogs must be on a lead almost everywhere, and some areas are closed to them entirely.
  • Folding bowl and water for the walkStreams run dry or dirty in summer, and dogs drink anything.
  • Poo bags on your beltClipped to the rucksack, because in a trouser pocket they reliably stay behind.
  • Paw balm or dog bootsOn hot tarmac, sharp scree and grit, paws are the most vulnerable part of a dog.
  • Tick remover in the rucksackNot in the tent: ticks are found on the walk, not in the evening.
  • Towel for a wet dogAfter every stream the dog is wet, and after that comes the car.
  • Dog carrier or slingFor smaller dogs on long routes, the answer for the way back.
  • Hi-vis vest during the shooting seasonIn woodland in autumn, a precaution worth taking seriously.
  • Recall practised againIn strange surroundings, with game and other dogs about, recall works less well than at home.
  • Breaks in the shade plannedDogs show overheating late, and then unmistakably.
  • Timing adjusted to the heatIn summer walk early and late, not in the middle of the day.

Heat and weather

Heat is the greatest danger to a dog on a camping holiday, and it creeps up.

  • Cooling mat or a damp towelMore reliable than a fan, because the cooling works through the belly.
  • Cooling coat for hot daysAbove all for dark and long-haired dogs on stretches with no shade.
  • More water than you planned forIn heat a dog needs several times as much.
  • Shade checked at every time of dayThe shade moves; a tethered dog does not.
  • Never left in the carEven in the shade with a window open, the inside becomes lethal within minutes.
  • Raincoat for the dogFor short-haired dogs in cool, persistent rain, not a frivolity.
  • Towels for dryingOtherwise a wet dog dries itself on the awning cushions.
  • Warm blanket for cool nightsIn the mountains, nights drop below ten degrees even in summer.
  • Paw balmFor cracked pads from heat, sand and salt water.
  • The signs of overheating knownPanting with the tongue extended, restlessness and unsteadiness are warnings, not tiredness.

Grooming and cleaning

For a dog, camping means sand, water and grass all at once. Without grooming kit, all of it ends up in the tent.

  • Brush suited to the coatDaily brushing keeps most of the sand and loose hair outside.
  • Dog shampooNeeded after salt water and mud, and human shampoo is harsh on the skin.
  • Towels for the dog aloneBy the third day nobody else wants to share a towel.
  • Nail clippersOn soft ground claws wear down less than they do on tarmac.
  • Ear cleanerFrequent swimming leads to ear infections quickly, especially in drop-eared dogs.
  • Dental care or dental chewsA trip is no reason to skip three weeks.
  • Flea and tick treatment topped upApply it in good time before you leave, so the protection is working on arrival.
  • Flea combQuickly useful on sites with a lot of dogs, and small enough for any bag.
  • Leftover wet food cleared away at onceOtherwise wasps come to the bowl, and the dog eats them too.
  • A spare towel for the carThe way back from the beach is always wetter than planned.

Canine first-aid kit

Abroad the vet is further away and more expensive. The basics take up almost no room.

  • Tick remover or tick cardThe most-used item in the whole kit.
  • Wound disinfectant for animalsHuman products are partly unsuitable, because a dog licks them off.
  • Dressings and self-adhesive bandagePaw injuries from broken glass and scree are the most common case.
  • Protective boot for an injured pawIt is what makes the walk back possible at all.
  • Tick and flea treatmentIn the south there are sandflies as well, and those need different products.
  • Something for diarrhoea in dogsUnfamiliar water and unfamiliar food are the rule when travelling.
  • Rehydration solution for animalsWith diarrhoea and in heat, more useful than any medicine.
  • Regular medication in sufficient quantityAbroad it is often only available on a local prescription.
  • Thermometer for animalsThe quickest way to tell exhaustion from illness.
  • Your own vet’s emergency numberFor an assessment by phone before you go looking for an unfamiliar practice.
  • A copy of the vaccination recordsKept separately from the original, in case the passport goes missing.

Things to do and rainy days

An under-occupied dog in the awning is louder than any neighbour. Keeping it busy is not a side issue here.

  • Favourite toy from homeThe familiar object helps with settling in and with being left alone.
  • Feeding toy or snuffle matIn the rain it occupies a dog for longer than any walk, and it calms rather than winds up.
  • A chew for the eveningIt keeps the dog relaxed while the humans eat.
  • Ball or throw toyOnly use it where running free is allowed, otherwise on the long line.
  • Water toyAt a lake, the simplest way to tire a dog out properly.
  • Towel for after playingAfter the water comes the awning, reliably.
  • Training sessions planned inTen minutes of thinking replaces half an hour of running, and in the rain that is worth its weight in gold.
  • Rest deliberately enforcedSomething is always happening on a site. Without enforced breaks no dog comes down.

Common questions

What paperwork does a dog need on holiday?
For travel within the EU, an EU pet passport with a valid rabies vaccination and a readable microchip. British owners travel instead on an animal health certificate issued shortly before departure. A first rabies vaccination has to be at least 21 days before entry. Some countries also require a tapeworm treatment, and certain breeds carry conditions of their own.
Can a dog run free on a campsite?
As a rule, no. Almost every site requires dogs to be on a lead across the whole grounds, often on the beach section as well. A ground anchor and a long line are therefore the most practical answer for exercise on your own pitch.
How do you protect a dog from the heat in summer?
Shade, plenty of water, walks early and late, and a cooling mat or damp towel to lie on. The dog never stays behind in the car, not in the shade and not briefly — the inside reaches lethal temperatures within minutes.
Should you change a dog’s food on holiday?
No. A change of food is the most common cause of stomach and bowel trouble on a trip. Take the usual food for the whole journey, plus a supply for a few extra days, because the brand is often not available abroad.
What do you do if the dog is unsettled in the tent at night?
A separate, clearly defined sleeping place with a familiar blanket works most reliably. Add a quiet pitch away from the playground and the shower block, and enough exercise during the day — most night-time restlessness is under-occupation rather than fear.
How do you find a dog-friendly campsite?
Before booking, check whether dogs are allowed, whether there is a fee, and whether there is a dog beach or an exercise area. The surroundings matter just as much: a site with woodland or a farm track next door is worth more than any facility on the grounds.
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